Yes, we have wines. And of exceptional quality!

In 2021 and 2022, the Brazilian wine market experienced an impressive phenomenon: consumption increased by 30% during this period, despite the economic challenges and setbacks that the pandemic imposed on the world. The truth is that this increase is not new, but never before has the jump been so large and pronounced. According to data from IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, in 2010, 22 million Brazilians reported consuming the beverage at least once a week. By 2020, that same number had jumped to 39 million. And the increase in the consumer market favored a second phenomenon: the significant growth in the production of excellent Brazilian wines.

Let's look at some more figures to get an accurate picture of the growth in production of the "drink of Bacchus" on national soil. In 2021, the volume of wine produced in the country increased by 60% compared to 2020, according to data from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV). The volume produced was 360 million liters, the highest recorded in the country since 2008.

There are several explanations for this phenomenon: from the arrival of new entrepreneurs from countries with a strong production culture to access to new manufacturing technologies. But one factor is predominant in Brazilians' increased appreciation and consumption of wine "Made in Brazil" in place of those produced by our neighbors Chile and Argentina and those imported from the "Old World": the evident leap in product quality.

A new culture and new production centers

For years, Brazilian wines were almost exclusively produced in the southern region of Brazil, mainly in Rio Grande do Sul. Among many dubious labels, sold in large bottles at low prices, some good quality products began to emerge. Mainly sparkling wines, which gradually gained worldwide prominence. This evolution also brought quality red, white, and rosé wines from the region.

From climatic factors to the strong European presence in the region, several factors led to the concentration of wine culture in the region. However, over the last 10 years, this has changed. Wine production has spread throughout the country, initially with a strong presence in the interior of São Paulo and Minas Gerais. Today, however, there are also producers in the Midwest and Northeast of the country.

The winter harvest opened the door to new producers

In an article published in 2021 on the Prazeres da Mesa website, expert Erwane Kaloudoff explains that most great wines are produced in regions of the world where grapes ripen and are harvested during the driest time of the year, with sunny days and cold nights. As such, the harvest takes place during the summer. The vine is traditionally pruned in August, sprouts in September, and blooms in October. However, the local climate means that the summer harvest takes place in high temperatures, with low temperature ranges, heavy rains, and moist soils. The result: grapes with low phenolic compound content, rarely successful ripening, and very diluted juices.

However, in the Mantiqueira Mountain Range region, which stretches across São Paulo and Minas Gerais, local producers had a brilliant idea: they took advantage of the region's winter climate (low rainfall, cool nights) and ideal conditions for ripening and a good harvest, and decided to change the grape planting and harvesting cycle. They began pruning twice a year to harvest grapes in winter. Eureka: they obtained grapes of the highest quality, especially of the Syrah variety.

The result was the emergence of wineries producing wines that met the quality standards of major international wines. Some, such as Guaspari, Maria Maria, Primeira Estrada, and Casa Verrone, have already received several international awards. The arrival of a product of excellence piqued the curiosity of Brazilians, who began not only to accept but also to admire domestic wines.

I believe this is still an incipient process, with about 10 years of existence. Wineries are multiplying in the region and Brazil has become a benchmark in winter harvesting. But low production is not only still insufficient to meet demand, it also means that premium wines from the region are quite expensive. Of course, not everything is perfect. But realizing that our country, in such a short time, is becoming a benchmark in the world of wine, and seeing Brazilian consumers recognizing and supporting this transformation is something that certainly overflows my glass and my heart with joy.